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HomeHomework HelpgeographyWave Dynamics

Wave Dynamics

Wave dynamics in coastal geomorphology refers to the study of how ocean waves interact with coastal landforms, influencing processes such as erosion, sediment transport, and the formation of various coastal features. This field examines the physical forces exerted by waves and their role in shaping the coastal landscape over time.

intermediate
4 hours
Geography
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Overview

Wave dynamics play a crucial role in shaping coastal geomorphology by influencing erosion and sediment transport. Understanding how waves interact with the coastline helps us appreciate the natural processes that create diverse coastal landforms, such as beaches, cliffs, and estuaries. These process...

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Key Terms

Wave
A disturbance that travels through a medium, often seen in water.

Example: Ocean waves are created by wind.

Erosion
The process of wearing away rocks and soil by natural forces.

Example: Waves erode cliffs over time.

Sediment
Small particles of rock and soil transported by water, wind, or ice.

Example: Sand on the beach is a type of sediment.

Longshore Drift
The movement of sediment along the coast by wave action.

Example: Longshore drift can create sandbars.

Coastal Landforms
Natural features formed by the interaction of waves and land.

Example: Cliffs and beaches are coastal landforms.

Wave Height
The vertical distance between the crest and trough of a wave.

Example: High waves can cause significant erosion.

Related Topics

Tidal Dynamics
Study of how tides affect coastal processes and landforms.
intermediate
Sedimentary Geology
Exploration of sediment types and their formation processes.
intermediate
Coastal Ecosystems
Understanding the biological communities that thrive in coastal environments.
advanced

Key Concepts

Wave formationErosionSediment transportCoastal landforms